Adoption Handbook

FEEDING YOUR NEW PET

Your new Greyhound has had his diet adjusted from the special high calorie, high protein, racing diet he required as a professional athlete to a top quality, well balanced, pet diet. Mealtime Do's and Don'ts follow:

DO feed your Greyhound twice a day. Four cups of dry food (kibble) per day. You may need to modify the amount after the first few weeks according to your dog's activity level and age. You should be able to feel ribs, but not see them. Please contact Jeanette Reynolds at (902) 889-2214 if you have any questions regarding how much to feed your dog.
DO use a small chunk, high-quality food. G.P.A.C. recommends Purina Pro-Plan: Maintenance, Dean's, President's Choice: Maintenance, Med-i-cal Maintenance, ShurGain Maintenance, ShurGain Canine Plus, Purina One, Nutrum: Maintenance, Eukanuba, Sensible Choice, Innova, Percise and Canidae.
DO pick a quiet corner of the room where your dog will be left when you're gone for feeding. If you are using a crate, you should feed your dog in the crate.
DO feed your dog at the same time every day. Greyhounds like consistency.
DO pick a time that will be convenient enough to allow you to let your dog out about twelve hours after feeding to relieve himself or herself. (Usually 6 am & 6 pm)
DO monitor your dog's eating habits. It is not unusual for a new Greyhound to refuse to eat for a day or two. To encourage eating, you may want to add a couple of tablespoons of good quality canned food & warm water poured over the dry food. Do not allow the food to soak after adding water.
DO pick up any food not eaten in 10 minutes and discard. Repeat this routine at the next feeding and your Greyhound will quickly learn mealtime limitations.
DO watch for itchy, flaky skin. Cold, dry weather can irritate a Greyhound's skin. During the dry winter months, add one to two tablespoons of fish oil, cod liver oil or Vita Shine to their food or flax seed oil or 1 capsule of Evening Primrose oil given orally/day. 1 cup of bran or ½ cup oatmeal to food weekly mixed with water.
DO add blueberries, broccoli, raspberries, organic meat, 2-3 garlic cloves to your dog’s diet occasionally.
DO treat your dog with carefully selected snacks such as pig's ears, cow hooves, & biscuits. A sterilized beef bone, frozen turkey neck, denta-bones, tartar busters are also excellent treats.
DON'T let your Greyhound eat everything in sight. Greyhounds generally have excellent appetites and will eat anything. Unfortunately, everything doesn’t quite agree with them. Despite what advertisers would have us believe, your Greyhound will be happiest with the same food every meal.
DON'T let your Greyhound drink large quantities of water or exercise immediately before or after eating: allow at least one hour. All deep chested dogs, including Greyhounds, are susceptible to bloat, a condition that can be fatal.
DON'T be surprised if your new pet expects you to share your banana as you slice it for your cereal. Your Greyhound may have eaten bananas, apricots, pumpkin, applesauce, spinach, marshmallows, apples, broccoli, and even vanilla ice-cream on a limited level as a racer. We don't expect you to be completely perfect!
DON'T EVER feed your dog chocolate. Reactions to this tempting sweet vary from dog to dog, but none are good. Chocolate contains ingredients that can speed up your dog's heart rate, cause allergic reactions, and can be fatal.
DON'T feed your dog "people shaped" treats like miniature hot dogs or bacon. These usually contain lots of dye and sugar. Stick to the basics of good quality biscuits.
DON'T feed your dog any food treats containing red dyes. Also don't feed your dog any beef basted chews. Plain white chews will do just fine.
DON'T feed you Greyhound from the table. This will only encourage bad habits that will be hard to break.
DON'T leave alluring items on kitchen counters. Greyhounds are curious by nature and may sample items left on the counter.
DON'T be alarmed at your Greyhound gulping down his/her meal. Greyhounds generally "bolt" their food without much, if any, chewing.

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HOUSEBREAKING HINTS

The main difference between Greyhound hygiene habits and average pet habits is that the Greyhound expects you to tell him when it's time to go. He has always expected his trainer to let him out into his yard on a schedule; unlike a pet puppy who is taught to scratch at the door to be let out.

However, because your Greyhound is used to living indoors and going outdoors to relieve himself, adjusting to his new lifestyle is relatively easy. Tips to follow include:

Develop a schedule and stick as closely to it as you can.

The basics to keep in mind are:

Out first thing in the morning
Out after meals
Out after naps
Out before you leave
Out before meals

It is important that you supervise your pet, especially at first. This gives you the opportunity to praise your dog for doing the right thing and also to keep an eye on him.
If your dog has an accident in the house, take him to the spot and give him a sharp, verbal reprimand and then take him outside and praise the dickens out of him when he goes in the right place. Do not hit your dog or try to put his nose in the accident, as your dog will respond more quickly and positively to kindness.
Your Greyhound may attempt to lift his leg or squat in a few places around the house to "mark" their territory, especially if you already have a dog. He/She is making the house THEIR house, so he/she feels more at home. Watch them carefully as they walk or sniff around the house and try to catch them before they do it. If this should happen, it does not go on for long, so try to be patient. "Accidents" may be cleaned with 1 part water and 5 parts vinegar.
Greyhounds are used to going out in their yard with a human around. If you just shove your pet out the door, he'll spend more time worrying about where you are than on what he's supposed to be doing.
If he doesn’t go when you expect him to during the first few days, you should make an extra effort to keep him close to you so that you can prevent a mistake.
If you're busy, you should crate him.
If he looks antsy, he goes out again.
It is important to differentiate between bathroom walks and exercise walks. The scheduled bathroom walks should be in a restricted area where the dog is taken to do his duty. You should walk back and forth in this area or stand in one spot and let the dog walk around you. Do not distract him with talk. When he goes, praise him.

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TRAINING YOUR GREYHOUND

One of the main reasons Greyhounds make such wonderful pets in that they are easily trainable. Retired racers believe that people are all knowing and all powerful, making you the natural choice to set the ground rules. Keeping your dog under this illusion will be a great benefit to your relationship! A few tips that will make the training process go smoothly:

The role as leader or coach of your greyhound is a serious responsibility. The messages you send will shape your dog's idea of the world.
Outline ahead of time what is acceptable and not acceptable behaviour for your Greyhound and make sure all family members abide by the rules:

Can he get on the furniture?
Where can he sleep?
Where can he eat?
What will be his treats?

Be consistent. Don't allow him/her to do one thing one day and not the next.
In most instances, a firm, sharp tone of voice will be enough to reprimand your Greyhound.
Once your Greyhound knows the family rules, another effective way to reprimand him is to firmly scold him and then totally ignore him for several minutes. Greyhounds crave attention and this approach will reinforce his guilt.
Remember that your dog will respond to your reaction, not your words. If he seems afraid of something new, and you cuddle and coo over him, he will quickly get the idea that he should react timidly to any new situation. Reassure him by stroking his neck.
Be aware that this life is a new experience for your Greyhound and simple things such as stairs, glass doors and shiny floors may frighten him at first. Take the time to show him that these new things are no big deal and easily mastered.
Always praise your Greyhound when he has done something good.
Throughout the dog's life, he has relied on someone to set boundaries for him. First his mother, then his trainer, now you. He is counting on you to tell him what is good and what isn’t.
Always remember, you're in charge - he's not.
GPAC recommends obedience training classes with your greyhound after allowing him to settle in. The recommended settle in period is 30 days.

Clicker Training

How Does It Work?

The clicker is a small plastic box with a metal tongue inside that makes a distinctive sound when it's pressed.

The click becomes a clear signal to the dog that he has done something right and a reward will follow. You can reward behaviours no matter how far away you are from your dog, and because it is a quick, distinctive sound, the dog quickly learns that he has done the right thing.

In clicker training there is no punishment - if the dog doesn't get it right he just doesn't get a reward. No more shouting, pushing, pulling and frustration - suddenly both you and your dog enjoy training instead of it being a chore.

How Do I Get Started?

On the back of your Multi-Clicker is a button whose four settings adjust both the volume and tone of the click produced. This is a big advantage in class training sessions where several clickers are being used.

Most dogs are highly sound sensitive and some are frightened by a loud click. The Multi-Clicker is the first of its kind to have variable intensity, so you can set the volume to suit your pet. Slide the volume control button so that your dog hears the click but is not intimidated by it.

Now you must teach the dog what the clicker means. Have a supply of small treats conveniently to hand in your pocket or a treat bag. Get your dog's attention, then sound the clicker and immediately give him a treat. Repeat this as many times as needed until your dog looks for the treat as soon as he hears the click. Some dogs quickly learn that the click means treat, others may need many training sessions.

GPAC carries multi clicker training aides. Clicker training information provided by The Company of Animals and Be Doggone Smart.

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HOME ALONE

Up until now, your Greyhound has led a very different life than that of a house pet. Even the most simple, common things in our everyday life can be completely foreign to a Greyhound and a little intimidating. A little patience and a lot of love will help you and your new pet make the adjustment. When leaving your Greyhound alone, remember:

One of the hardest things for your Greyhound to adjust to will be loneliness. This dog has lived its entire life with either litter mates or kennel mates and people coming and going most of the day.
Never leave your dog outdoors, particularly in the winter. With their short hair, Greyhounds are very susceptible to cold (and heat exhaustion.)
Never tie your Greyhound outside on a rope, chain, or "runner" as Greyhounds are not used to being tied to something stationary. They can get tangled up and injure themselves, or will pull, wiggle or chew their way out. They also could forget they are tied, take off running at their blazing speed, and snap their neck when they hit the end of the line.
A big asset in this adjustment period is the crate. This portable cage provides the security your dog needs as well as protecting both the dog and your house from each other.
Your pet is used to having his own crate in the kennel, a nice old bone and a warm comfortable place with a blanket in which to nap the day away. Using a crate is not cruel; it provides the sense of security your dog needs. A radio or TV will provide soothing background noises.
The first few days you should use an old washable blanket or something similar in the crate. A favourite bone can be placed in it and the door left open.
At mealtime, place your dog and its food in the crate. This will reinforce the idea that this is his own spot.
Before you leave you dog for an extended period, you should practice leaving for short time intervals and then build up.
Don't pay attention to your Greyhound a half hour before leaving, or half hour after coming home. This will help the transition period for your dog and curb the separation anxiety problem.
The next time (even a few minutes later) repeat the process, but this time leave the room. Plan to hide for several minutes and then let him out. This teaches him that you always come home.
If your Greyhound acts up when crated, stomp into the room and tell him he's terrible then stomp out again. You can even smack the top of the crate if you like-ham it up! After a few minutes of quiet, praise him enthusiastically again.
The crate will provide an escape for your dog if children are harassing him. Of course, the strictly enforced rule is that no one bother the dog when he's in the crate.
If you decide not to use a crate because someone is home most of the time, you should choose a room to keep the dog in when you're gone. You will need to practice just like the people using crates. GPAC will have sent a muzzle home and show you how to put it on. It will help protect dog and your furnishings.
All dogs, including greyhounds, have a need to chew; it helps to relieve tension and anxiety. We strongly recommend a large sterilized bone or cow hoof to chew while you are away. Children should understand that this bone is strictly the dog's, and not a toy to be taken away from the dog.

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EXERCISE

A popular myth about Greyhounds is that, as ex-athletes, they require a lot of exercise. In reality, the Greyhound is a pretty lazy pup. However, we do recommend a certain amount of exercise, which not only is good for your dog, but good for you as well.

The most obvious and easiest answer is in your own backyard. The typical Greyhound enjoys a few laps around the yard at top speed and then is finished.
Care should be taken to introduce your new Greyhound to your yard or any new fenced area before turning him loose in it. This means a walk around the fence so that the dog can familiarize himself with the boundary.
You also should let the dog investigate hazards in your yard such as a barbeque or planter.
The first time your dog exercised in your yard off the leash should be in daylight and under an adult's supervision.
You may need to restrict your dog's activity in a new area. Greyhounds have be conditioned for sprinting and may become so excited and interested by a new exercise area that they overdo and could overtax themselves.
If you plan to use your Greyhound as a partner in a walking or jogging fitness program, you should have an enthusiastic partner as long as you start slowly.
Greyhounds exercised primarily on and in their kennel situation, which means the pads on their feet are smooth and soft. A little time must be taken to build up the callouses needed to exercise with you on cement or blacktop. Start your dog's regime the same way you did yours - slowly. Walk or jog two or three blocks at first and then gradually increase.
Care should be taken during extreme temperatures. Your dog is susceptible to heat stroke, just as you are. During hot weather it is wise to exercise early and easier. Make sure your dog is completely cooled down before feeding.
Cold weather presents other hazards for this desert breed. A warm-up blanket (coat) made for Greyhounds is an excellent idea for walking or jogging in winter. Check you dog's feet for snow packing which can split webs, or ice cuts. It's also a good idea to swish the dog's feet in lukewarm water to rinse off salt and other ice melters after your walk. Boots and coats are also available. Ask your GPAC representative about them.
Each dog is an individual with different activity levels. Generally, younger dogs enjoy higher activity than older dogs. If your dog has a medical problem that would indicate a restricted activity program, GPAC will advise you of those restrictions.
Most Greyhound pets can be kept happy and healthy with a 30-minute walk daily. Although romping and running in a large fenced area is fun, it is not essential everyday.
DO NOT: Exercise your dog off leash in an area that is not entirely enclosed - this is asking for a disaster to happen. The Greyhound has been bred to scan the horizon and run after anything that moves. Something as small as a paper cup blowing across the street from the park could mean your dog's death. Once your pet is focussed in on this moving object, he no longer hears you: he is running on pure instinct. For this reason, electronic fencing is not permitted. An unenclosed fence also lets other dogs into your yard. This is also against your contract and may lead to your dog(s) being returned to the Society.
Most Greyhounds walk very well on a leash. If your pet starts to pull or freezes as he sees something on the horizon, "pop" or "snap" the leash to quickly jerk the collar and give the command, "heel", "let's go" or something similar

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